Hey Dudes and Dudettes!

[Hellgate]

Hello - My family and I moved here four weeks ago from Austin. I got a killer job at the tall building downtown.

So far I love my job but we are mixed on OKC. The city is cheap but expensive at the same time; houses are next to free, but insurance, food, and fuel is expensive. The other thing that I find odd is no one appears to do anything, and what's up with all of the vacant lots and empty buildings with no "For Sale" signs? It looks like the lots have been vacant for decades. And I could shoot a cannon downtown on the weekends, and after 5 pm and no one would notice! Where is everyone and what does this city do???

[LandRunOkie]

Where is everyone and what does this city do???

They are searching for a better boulevard. It may take a while.

[OKCisOK4me]

All of our bars are dispersed over 640 square miles...unlike 6th Street.

But welcome to OKC!

[Spartan]

Hello - My family and I moved here four weeks ago from Austin. I got a killer job at the tall building downtown.

So far I love my job but we are mixed on OKC. The city is cheap but expensive at the same time; houses are next to free, but insurance, food, and fuel is expensive. The other thing that I find odd is no one appears to do anything, and what's up with all of the vacant lots and empty buildings with no "For Sale" signs? It looks like the lots have been vacant for decades. And I could shoot a cannon downtown on the weekends, and after 5 pm and no one would notice! Where is everyone and what does this city do???

Is this post for real???

[adaniel]

Is this post for real???

In his defense, nobody's going to be doing a whole lot of anything when its 113 degrees outside.

To the OP, Austin is very different from OKC. What do you like to do? What are your interests? I'm a transplant from a much larger city and OKC is one of those places where if you dig a little below the surface there's actually a lot going on. Nothing will fall in your lap, although I think that's true for a lot of areas.

[RadicalModerate]

Is this post for real???

Yes . . . and No . . . =)

I think the OP is looking for a job at condensing things for . . .
oh . . . i dunno . . . Reader's Digest . . ? AARP . . . ?

Yet . . . The Austin Connection . . . has me wondering . . .
(is austin a "major league city" . .. ?)
(if so . . . how could you make such a questionable choice?)

Two Words (for the rogueaustinite): blue . . . door.
prob'ly within walkin' distance from where u at.

[Easy180]

Hello - My family and I moved here four weeks ago from Austin. I got a killer job at the tall building downtown.

So far I love my job but we are mixed on OKC. The city is cheap but expensive at the same time; houses are next to free, but insurance, food, and fuel is expensive. The other thing that I find odd is no one appears to do anything, and what's up with all of the vacant lots and empty buildings with no "For Sale" signs? It looks like the lots have been vacant for decades. And I could shoot a cannon downtown on the weekends, and after 5 pm and no one would notice! Where is everyone and what does this city do???

Sounds like you moved to Detroit instead of OKC

[BBatesokc]

Post reads odd.... "I got a killer job at the tall building downtown..." Maybe its just me, but I don't know an adult that writes that way.

Also, you're from Austin but claim the gas, food and insurance is expensive in OKC? I go to Austin every few weeks (parents live there), and Austin is [a lot] more expensive (okay, I have no idea about insurance). Also, a house for someone with "a killer job at the tall building downtown" will not be "next to free." Unless you consider $300,000+ "next to free."

Not an attack, just gotta get that out of the way first.

People do the same things here they do in Austin - however, it would be helpful if we actually knew what it is you did in Austin.

When I go to Austin it appears people eat, shop, go to clubs at night and like outdoor stuff during the day (we've got all that). Our river is not nearly as developed or as citizen friendly as your lake, and we don't have a S. Congress Ave. or a 6th street - but we have many developed lakes, nice parks and jogging trails around our river, lots of hiking places, Bricktown and tons of other places to eat or dance and listen to music.

[OKCisOK4me]

Well, OP is online. So if he's for real, he should leave a tubular response!

[Hellgate]

Okay we'll try typical English. I do realize that this internet thing is very serious business.

I got a great job as a manager at Devon Energy.

Housing is very inexpensive here, for $300K you can buy a large house, 3,500 sqft+. However homeowners insurance is expensive. I've been quoted between $2,500 and $4,800. I was expecting ~ $1,500. Gas is more expensive here. In Austin I was paying $2.98, here it's about $3.25ish.

Yes, after 5 pm downtown is dead. When I walk from the Devon tower to my apt on 4th a Walker, I see all of 10 people after 6 pm. On the weekends nothing appears to be going on.

As far as empty lots there are hundreds of them. Maybe there are so many no one notices them any more???

What do I like to do? Cycling, yes I rode the river path. Running, any 5K or 10Ks in town? Motorcycling and motorcycle track days.

Thanks for the welcome, I think...

[JayhawkTransplant]

I used to live at Legacy, so I understand where you're coming from. I have a dog, so I ran after work every night, and it seemed the only people I'd ever see were the occasional homeless guys. Downtown is pretty dead on weekday evenings...even on weekend evenings, really.

This is not a big city for cycling, unfortuantely. I think the Hefner trail is your best bet. There are a few runs per month in the metro area. Living downtown is one of the best case scenarios for running...many of the suburbs are devoid of sidewalks.

OKC certainly leaves something to be desired when it comes to recreational facilities. This is party due to the fact that many (not all) OKC residents are just not into exercise or sport. It is also due to the fact that many (not all) OKC residents have a very utilitarian mindset with where tax dollars should be spent. However, things are getting better, and I'd encourage you to become part of the improvements. There are focus groups that are working to improve many aspects of OKC. Being new to town, you could bring a unique perspective. Start here: http://www.okc.gov/planokc/playokc/

[Pete]

The PART of downtown where the Legacy is located is certainly dead.

But Bricktown is a part of downtown, easy walking distance from your apartment and absolutely teeming with people on weeknights and weekends.

If you were looking for action and life, you should have moved to Deep Deuce where there is much more activity, plenty more on the way, and an easy stroll to dozens of bars, restaurants and clubs in BT. Midtown would be a better choice as well, especially after the streetcar is implemented, but even so the middle of that district is only a mile from Devon. Not many Central Business Districts have a lot of life after business hours. At least OKC has a big NBA franchise downtown and during basketball season it draws a lot of people in.

As far as recreation, there is an active triathlon club in the area, plus plenty of cycling and running groups. Plenty of 5K's, 10K's, a big marathon in the spring and a very well organized Ironman, half-Ironman and Olympic distance tri every September (Redman).

As with any community, the best way to get connected and find the things you like to do and like-minded people is to proactively seek out and join interest groups. People in Oklahoma are so incredibly friendly and welcoming that if you make any effort at all you'll have people lining up trying to help you.


I think you are way off base on your home insurance information. The largest determinant of premiums is the value of the property and homes are very inexpensive in OKC.

And while some obvious things like gas might be slightly more than Austin, it's still cheap in relation to just about anywhere else (living in CA I woudl KILL for $3.2 at the pump!!), I have never seen a decent-sized U.S. city with less expensive restaurants than OKC.

OKC shows up on virtually every low cost of living index for good reason.


If you really want to be happy in OKC I would suggest keeping a positive attitude and making a little effort.

[BBatesokc]

There really are no venues in the heart of downtown to give many people any evening options. But, Bricktown is only a few blocks to the East and its pretty busy day and night (at night mostly if you're 30 or under IMO).

Western Ave. area reminds me a little of Austin and it can be busy day/night also.

Can't really speak to the empty lots. I prefer the open spaces, so I've never paid them much attention. If you're talking about all the lots south of the Devon tower, that's a different story, and is a future park area (hopefully).

There are a handful of different cycling groups that meet up. Some Google searching locates most of them. The river is the only place I ride - due to safety and convenience (no stops).

There are also several 5K/10K's throughout the year. Again, Google search or stop by Red Coyote (best runners store in OKC IMO). The wife and I have done several local runs, but now prefer the mud run type events - training right now for the Tough Mudder later this year just outside of Austin.

Several bars in the area have 'bike nights' and there are poker type runs throughout the year. I like the annual meetups in Medicine Park. Also, rides along Historic Route 66 are fun.

Personally, I don't think anything for $300,000 is 'inexpensive.' You can get more for your money here, but, its still alot of money. I love how we are all conditioned to think a house should cost 1/4 of a million dollars or more and $40-$50K for a new truck is 'normal.'

As for gas, not sure where you're buying it in Austin, but online records show you have to go all the way back to December of last year to find $2.97 (average) gas in Austin (and at the same time it was only $3.05 here) and historically over the last year gas is cheaper in OKC than Austin. But, that just may have been your perception. I used to think Austin was so much more expensive than OKC, but other than higher housing costs (purchase prices, rent, property taxes), I find most everything else (gas, groceries, restaurants, entertainment) is the same to maybe only 15-20% higher there. But, of course you've got the zero income tax.

Welcome, and with some effort you'll find there is lots to do here. Been here all my life (42 years), wife and I are very physically active, visited many other states and we still would rather be nowhere else but in OKC.

[Pete]

Here are some resources for you:

Running / Triathlon Calendar for Oklahoma

Triathlon Club of OKC

Landrunners (OKC Running Club)

Schlegel Bicycles (Great downtown store; resource list)


I would also highly recommend getting involved with Urban Neighbors, a network of people that live downtown. They have tons of events and would be a great way to learn about things to do downtown.

[bucktalk]

If you'd like -send me a personal message through OKCTALK with your email account and I'll share a few things I've discovered to do in OKC. There are a lot of things to do but some of them could be hard to find. Hope to hear from you - and welcome!

[Questor]

Hi Hellgate. The core downtown does get pretty dead after 5 p.m. There are pockets that are not, and I would suggest hanging out in those areas... they would be the area around NW 12th and Walker known as Midtown, the area around 10th and Broadway where you can get coffee, sushi, steak, etc. (although after 8 p.m. this area dies off fast), the area near NW 8th and Hudson has a few things going on, and the area immediately south of Devon is the botanical gardens where you will find people walking dogs and jogging at all hours. During the NBA season the number of people in that area increases dramatically. To the east of the core downtown is of course Bricktown which I am sure you are familiar with. There are lots of bars, eating establishments, a movie theater, and so on in that area, but I have found that during the week the Midtown area has had a better crowd lately.

Whereas downtown Austin has a lot going on, OKC's downtown does have many things to offer and is improving, but Austin it is not. If you venture out of the area a bit and go to N. Western Ave. from I-40 north on up to say 75th street, there's actually a quite nice strip of places to hang out. Much further north there are signs of life on Lake Hefner, and all along Memorial Road as well. One thing OKC could do better at is providing interesting things to do that are not food or alcohol related. For example there are two or three cool old school record stores and half a dozen true concert venues in the area, but for a metro of over a million that is really quite sad. The good news is that many things have been changing pretty rapidly in recent years as more people move here from around the country.

Groceries are more expensive here for the horrible quality of product that you get. Even at the local Whole Foods the veggies are more wilted than you would ever see in Texas. I think a lot of the problem there is that there are few in-state greenhouses and local supply chains for that sort of thing, but the good news there is that the situation is improving now that every major upscale chain in the country is circling OKC looking to land soon.

My experience has been the opposite of what you are saying about home insurance... it is much cheaper here. Auto insurance is higher than a lot of places that are out there though... I think it is the vast expanse of roads and uninsured motorists that drive it up here. My experience hasn't been the same as yours with respect to gas prices... they are always some of the cheapest in the nation, and there are many websites out there that track that sort of thing and can confirm that. If you are filling up in the core downtown that is probably your problem... competition is weak there and prices are higher. I understand what you are getting at when you say 'people not doing anything here' and think this comment is pretty much spot on with reality. I'm sure folks will get defensive now, but the majority of them will answer with examples of how they go out to eat a few times a week and stroll through some art work for ten minutes once a month or go to a concert three times a year. They just don't understand. There's a reason why we rank low on the healthiness charts.... Yes there are a lot of vacant lots around the metro, I am not sure what that is all about. Speculation perhaps? Or it could be our zoning and condemning laws... probably nothing is really prompting anyone to have to do anything with that land, so they are just setting on it.

The good news is that there are groups of people here in the metro that are into as many different things as there are in Austin, but you may have to look a bit harder to find them (OKC isn't as web connected as Austin where even the local food cart vendor has a website... Austin is very tech focused with all its computer people it has there). Your best approach is probably word of mouth, or to go to places where you think people might be who share your same hobbies, or ask on here as there are a lot of people who are radically different from one another and who have a wide range of interests.

Welcome. Hope you find what you are looking for.

[Bellaboo]

Yes, after 5 pm downtown is dead. When I walk from the Devon tower to my apt on 4th a Walker, I see all of 10 people after 6 pm. On the weekends nothing appears to be going on.

Come October, You'll have a crowd (18,203) to deal with 43 times through the middle of April. The preseason and regular season games have already been posted, you can find on dailythunder.com. This past year the Thunder went all the way to the NBA Finals......It's comparable to the World Series and the Superbowl.....It was reported that the media base came from over 240 countries, at one of the Western Conference finals games against San Antonio, two guys next to me flew in from London just to come watch the game......... Besides the NBA, there will be numerous other activities. The Memorial Marathon had over 22,000 runners this past year. It occurs every April. before you know it, you'll find arts festivals, Big 12 baseball, NCAA national events (WCWS - softball) and other sporting events and cultural activities such as Red Earth. You just missed the OKC Ozarka Nationals Drag boat racing on the river....it's downtown for a 4 day event..One boat clocked over 225 MPH this year....It won't take long and you'll see there is something going on all the time it seems, I could go on, and on, etc .....and Welcome.

[pw405]

Surprised nobody mentioned all of planned new projects.. you know, Boat house row, Maps 3, Core to Shore, etc.

[Oh GAWD the Smell!]

Property insurance might be higher (don't know how much they are in TX), but wait until you see your property tax bill. TX has massive property taxes compared to here.

[Bellaboo]

Property insurance might be higher (don't know how much they are in TX), but wait until you see your property tax bill. TX has massive property taxes compared to here.

My sister lives in the Ft Worth area, has a home half the value as I do, and her property tax bill is twice as much as mine, and I pay over $ 3,200.00.




Forgot to mention Wayne Coyne's (Flaming Lips) one thousand skeleton torch march Halloween Parade downtown in late October.....

[BBatesokc]

My sister lives in the Ft Worth area, has a home half the value as I do, and her property tax bill is twice as much as mine, and I pay over $ 3,200.00.




Forgot to mention Wayne Coyne's (Flaming Lips) one thousand skeleton torch march Halloween Parade downtown in late October.....

I think the Coyne marching skeletons is a thing of the past.

[Steve]

From what I've heard, it wasn't Coyne that wanted to part ways with the parade.... note the name change for the parade as well. I'll just leave it at that.

[Spartan]

Okay we'll try typical English. I do realize that this internet thing is very serious business.

I got a great job as a manager at Devon Energy.

Housing is very inexpensive here, for $300K you can buy a large house, 3,500 sqft+. However homeowners insurance is expensive. I've been quoted between $2,500 and $4,800. I was expecting ~ $1,500. Gas is more expensive here. In Austin I was paying $2.98, here it's about $3.25ish.

Yes, after 5 pm downtown is dead. When I walk from the Devon tower to my apt on 4th a Walker, I see all of 10 people after 6 pm. On the weekends nothing appears to be going on.

As far as empty lots there are hundreds of them. Maybe there are so many no one notices them any more???

What do I like to do? Cycling, yes I rode the river path. Running, any 5K or 10Ks in town? Motorcycling and motorcycle track days.

Thanks for the welcome, I think...

This forum has a lot of local leaders, developers, real estate folk, downtown business owners, area restaurant owners, architects, etc on it - as the forum has become a force in local politics, we strive to be credible. We're glad you found us, and welcome to OKC!... sorry your first post just came off weird.

By the way, gas prices have been rising significantly in the last few weeks (we were paying $3 for a while). The only real difference in gas prices is the state-added gasoline tax (ie., MO is usually cheapest bc no added gas tax). Here is a map to see how areas of Texas compare to areas of Oklahoma for gas prices:
http://www.oklahomacitygasprices.com...By_County.aspx

You're right, we have a lot of vacant lots, and we're painfully aware of that... we razed thousands (yes, 1000s) of historic buildings in the 60s and 70s and we beat our civic leaders up over that every day. We have an aggressive redevelopment strategy, which both your abode (not more than 5 years old) and workplace have been a part of. There are a dozens of major developments occurring right now, mostly private, in addition to some major public projects. Downtown OKC is seeing more growth than almost any similar-sized city's downtown right now.

If you're interested in staying physically active, I'd recommend the river trails as well as the Hefner trails. Personally, when I want to go for a nice jog or bike ride, I head out to one of the shady historic districts between downtown and I-44 and just ride around; walkability and bicyclability is great if you're staying inside the mile streets, it's crossing busy arteries like 23rd or Classen when things get dicey. I also have to recommend Rocktown, one of the coolest indoor urban rock climbing gyms - in an old grain silo across from downtown. You can rent a canoe or kayak to try rowing out on the river as well (best rowing venue in the nation).

The problem with being at Walker/4th is that you can't walk anywhere due to the construction mess along Walker. I suspect that area will come alive, much like other areas, once the reconstruction of Walker Avenue and Bicentennial Park is complete at the end of this year. Bicent Park was just fine the way it was (grrr) but it will be a pretty impressive when finished. Then you'll be able to appreciate having City Hall, the Civic Center Music Hall, the OKCMOA, Bicentennial Park, dramatic skyline views, et al., just a block away. The OKCMOA is definitely the life blood of that area right now, but the Civic Center also draws large crowds many nights. Further down Sheridan is a few blocks called Film Row that is definitely your closest mixed-use hotspot, and the Plaza Court area of Midtown (centered around the Walker Circle) is also quite active.

If you think downtown is dead now (def true for WEST of the tracks), all I can say is that the streetcar will be your savior. That breaks ground in a year or so. Very exciting.

[Teo9969]

Hellgate,

You got a great job at a great time to be in OKC, so congrats on that!

To answer the "expensive" thing: Gas is for sure no more than .05 to .10 more expensive than Austin, and really, it depends on what pumps you find. If you just recently moved here you probably were more worried about other things than the .20 to .40 cent raise in gas prices over the last month or so (they've been climbing with oil, which I'm sure you've been keeping track of). The food should not be anymore expensive either. If you mean groceries, I've never shopped for groceries in Austin, so I don't know, but Restaurants are just as or more expensive in Austin than here (exceptions withstanding).

As for insurance, I could honestly see getting quoted higher at this point. OKC has been nailed with several hail-storms in the last couple years that have cost insurance companies hundreds of millions of dollars...So rates in this city are on a definite hike. You should shop around of course and you might find a better deal than what you have found initially.

Vacant lots are just something that you're gonna have to get used to for awhile. OKC is 2.5x the size Austin with 75% of the population. Just plan on doing some driving for the foreseeable future.

As far as what to do...you'll have to let us know what you like to do, and we should be able to help you find some places to fit in!

Welcome to OKC! It may not be Austin, but you're in a city where, if you choose, you can have a say in the way that it develops.

[BoulderSooner]

also you are wrong about the gas prices ... okc and austin have pretty much the exact same retail gas prices ..