Knife sharpening around Quail Springs Mall?

[TheTravellers]

Neither Home Depot nor Lowe's do, anybody know of somebody that does it near there?

[Martin]

i could swear that a similar question was asked a couple years ago... lemme look around. -M

[Martin]

found it! -M

http://www.okctalk.com/current-event...g-service.html

[TheTravellers]

Thx, looks like that place is in Norman, though. :-( I put "hardware" in google maps and saw/remembered the Westlake on Britton (we used to frequent that area, but don't much anymore now that Size Records is gone), called them and they do it, yay for the local-ish retailers...

[AP]

I noticed in that linked thread that Sid is no longer on the forum at all. Did he disappear?

[Tundra]

old Paris flea market, I think he charge $3 , he uses a paper wheel and it puts a beautiful and razor sharp edge on it....

[mkjeeves]

Not north either but I was in Lumber 2 the other day for something else and it looked like they had a knife sharpening service set up at their knife sales counter.

7200 S Sooner Rd, Oklahoma City, OK 73135
Phone (405) 741-4400

[mkjeeves]

Also not far north, there used to be one at Mary's Swap Meet, but I haven't been out there in years.

[ctchandler]

Williams-Sonoma at Penn Square Mall supposedly has a knife sharpening service.
C. T.

[oklip955]

Along the same lines, anyone know where one can have copper cookware retinned?

[Tundra]

Along the same lines, anyone know where one can have copper cookware retinned?

I had a friend that used a place in Tulsa , called Modern plating company...

[tfvc.org]

Are you talking kitchen knives or utility knives? If there still is a place that sells kitchen knives they should offer that service (either in house or they have someone do it) or you can pop in a restaurant/hotel and see if a member of kitchen staff can do it or find out who their knife sharpening service is).

[Urbanized]

I noticed in that linked thread that Sid is no longer on the forum at all. Did he disappear?

Sid's profile and associated posts were deleted from the board, I believe at his request.

[Uptowner]

I'll preface this post by saying it's about DIY and edge geometry. You might just skip it if you're not interested.

The spyderco sharpmaker is a great system when combined with the optional diamond rods for extra fine profiling. CT was right about needing reprofiling. After so many honings the edge is degraded. only very thin flat ground blades like shun can get away with sharpening on a steel forever. Even then not forever ever.

The beauty of the sharpmaker is that the grinding angles are set solid in it base. There's much less human error involved, for a knife to work most efficiently(efficiently mean the sharpest edge combined with longest retention)the angles have to match, doing this by hand on a whetstone is a serious skill. The downfall to the sharpmaker is it is preset to either 40 or 30"inclusive" which could also be called 20 or 15 "exclusive". The inclusive exclusive parts only apply to people who like to put chisel edges or Japanese edges on knives. The downfall being, one can't make custom edges or get that shave a newspaper in half edge. It also means you'll end up reprofiling all your existing knives that aren't 30 or 40 degrees to the preset. This is not a terrible thing, just time consuming.

The paper wheel guy or the bench grinder sharpener will end up doing the same thing... He will reprofile your edges very thin. Making them extremely sharp...for about 5 minutes. the thin profile, while sharp, lends itself to burring, and on inexpensive soft steel, the edge can completely fold over. Now you need your knives reprofiled again!

I used the sharpmaker for about 5 years before I upgraded to a professional set-up. Which is essentially the same principle but with the ability to polish a blade at any angle I choose. I use the saber grind on all my pocket knives, which uses the factory bevel, with a 40 degree preset backbevel, and a 30 degree cutting edge. Which is the standard edge for the German kitchen knives, Henkel, Whusthoff, etc. while not as sharp as a 24 degree shun, you could Have your morning shave a time or two before a honing. Once the profiles are set, using the aforementioned diamond stones(that polish more than remove metal) honing and maintenance takes about 2 minutes.

I do my chef knifes on the 30 degree only with a leather stropping before each meal prep. Utility knives follow the above formula, without stropping but honing every time they lose "hair popping" sharpness.

heres an example of a reprofiled pocket folder. The one on top has had its bevel reprofiled from the factory bevel and an extra cutting edge a "combo edge" has been put on the bottom.

Another option is to buy the $20 knives from the restaurant supply and a decent "pull through" sharpener with at least 2 sets of grit and a ceramic "steel" then just chuck em after they've lost too much belly. It's not as satisfying. But effective and quick.

Hope that helps.

[Tundra]

I'll preface this post by saying it's about DIY and edge geometry. You might just skip it if you're not interested.

The spyderco sharpmaker is a great system when combined with the optional diamond rods for extra fine profiling. CT was right about needing reprofiling. After so many honings the edge is degraded. only very thin flat ground blades like shun can get away with sharpening on a steel forever. Even then not forever ever.

The beauty of the sharpmaker is that the grinding angles are set solid in it base. There's much less human error involved, for a knife to work most efficiently(efficiently mean the sharpest edge combined with longest retention)the angles have to match, doing this by hand on a whetstone is a serious skill. The downfall to the sharpmaker is it is preset to either 40 or 30"inclusive" which could also be called 20 or 15 "exclusive". The inclusive exclusive parts only apply to people who like to put chisel edges or Japanese edges on knives. The downfall being, one can't make custom edges or get that shave a newspaper in half edge. It also means you'll end up reprofiling all your existing knives that aren't 30 or 40 degrees to the preset. This is not a terrible thing, just time consuming.

The paper wheel guy or the bench grinder sharpener will end up doing the same thing... He will reprofile your edges very thin. Making them extremely sharp...for about 5 minutes. the thin profile, while sharp, lends itself to burring, and on inexpensive soft steel, the edge can completely fold over. Now you need your knives reprofiled again!

I used the sharpmaker for about 5 years before I upgraded to a professional set-up. Which is essentially the same principle but with the ability to polish a blade at any angle I choose. I use the saber grind on all my pocket knives, which uses the factory bevel, with a 40 degree preset backbevel, and a 30 degree cutting edge. Which is the standard edge for the German kitchen knives, Henkel, Whusthoff, etc. while not as sharp as a 24 degree shun, you could Have your morning shave a time or two before a honing. Once the profiles are set, using the aforementioned diamond stones(that polish more than remove metal) honing and maintenance takes about 2 minutes.

I do my chef knifes on the 30 degree only with a leather stropping before each meal prep. Utility knives follow the above formula, without stropping but honing every time they lose "hair popping" sharpness.

heres an example of a reprofiled pocket folder. The one on top has had its bevel reprofiled from the factory bevel and an extra cutting edge a "combo edge" has been put on the bottom.

Another option is to buy the $20 knives from the restaurant supply and a decent "pull through" sharpener with at least 2 sets of grit and a ceramic "steel" then just chuck em after they've lost too much belly. It's not as satisfying. But effective and quick.

Hope that helps.

30 seconds on the paper wheel and I'm good to go, I've been using the paper wheels for well over 30 years... To each his own, it's worked well for me

[Uptowner]

It's a great tool. And I've seen guys who can put on a mirror polish with some micron diamond compound over the paper. But it's easy to remove too much steel if you haven't got 30 years worth of practice. And in most of my experience with "pro's" they take too much steel off and too extreme an angle on so it cuts nice but easily chips or burrs depending on hard or soft compounds.

The assisted hand sharpening stuff still works great. And with minimal practice gives a pretty nice edge. The wicked edge and apex pro systems are another story. There's a guy in OKC that can put a legendary edge on a blade. He charges $10 plus S&H however. So if money's no obstacle...

[Tundra]

It's a great tool. And I've seen guys who can put on a mirror polish with some micron diamond compound over the paper. But it's easy to remove too much steel if you haven't got 30 years worth of practice. And in most of my experience with "pro's" they take too much steel off and too extreme an angle on so it cuts nice but easily chips or burrs depending on hard or soft compounds.

The assisted hand sharpening stuff still works great. And with minimal practice gives a pretty nice edge. The wicked edge and apex pro systems are another story. There's a guy in OKC that can put a legendary edge on a blade. He charges $10 plus S&H however. So if money's no obstacle...

Yes the wrong person could do irreparable damage very quickly on a wheel , my dad taught what not to do early on... I could see someone going in blind screwing up a knife pretty quick.

[TheTravellers]

Westlake did a decent job at $3/knife. I'll definitely pick up a Spyderco Sharpmaker in the near future, though, since we use our kitchen knives (Henckel) a lot more than we used to now that we're both home for dinner, looks cool, thanks, Uptowner, for the tip!