The Magic of Oklahoma City

[okcpulse]

I've been living in Texas for over ten months now. And I've learned a lot, as well as realized a few facts of life. But I'll discuss that later.

My wife and I just returned from a trip last weekend (Oct. 13-15) to Oklahoma to visit an ailing relative. I have already been to Oklahoma City once this year over summer (got to see Patrick, Keith and Todd), but even though this return visit was swift, exhausting and under not-so-good circumstances, it was a wonderful weekend. You'll never realize what was a part of you for so long until you feel its absence... in another state.

It's good to see people here on OKCTalk debate, critique and hold high standards for what we want to see happen in OKC. Keep that up, because it's very valuable for Oklahoma. But I also see people here getting frustrated and giving up hope when things go slow or proposals disappear in the wind. When that happens, I go back to what makes OKC mean so much to me to begin with... and why I still proudly proclaim myself to be from Oklahoma City.

To me, it's the magic that Oklahoma City holds... the feeling of home. I found myself doing the things I enjoyed so before I moved. Like going to 7-Eleven on Saturday mornings to grab a paper. Going to Stevie's Bargain Liquor, saying hello to Stevie and grabbing an Oklahoma Gazette along with my case of Molson Ice. I drove by Lake Hefner, remembering the countless warm spring days and summer mornings jogging for four miles while watching the sailboats and bikers drift by. I passed the Ford Center, reminiscing the days of Blazers games, screaming at the top of my lungs watching our team beat the crap out of teams that didn't stand a chance against us.

Then there were those days of hitting Bricktown for Independence Days. I know Bricktown has taken some wrong turns for our standards, but there are things about Bricktown that still make the place fun. I coasted along Lake Hefner, remembering those Saturday afternoon drives my wife and I would take.

In the middle of all the memories, I noticed a change in Oklahoma. People weren't bad-mouthing the state the way I remember. There seemed to be a new pride in our state. This may not be a big deal, but I noticed ODOT now stamps the state shapes into the concrete of Oklahoma's bridges. The new state highway signs are nice. It's a symbol of pride. Like it or not, that's what it is. And I noticed a big difference in Oklahoma and Texas, and that is cohesivesness. Everyone was wearing their OU clothing for the game, and while to some that may be overkill, to a new out-of-stater, you get the feeling that everyone is on the same page. And somehow you want to be a part of it all.

I know we are all frustrated that Oklahoma City hasn't yet seen the high-rise development we all hope for, but I have this sneaking suspicion that our city's big date with huge high-rise developments is not far down the road. Look at Dallas. The city went more than a decade without any new downtown high-rise construction, and today, there are eight new towers under construction in downtown Dallas that didn't happen until after the American Airlines Arena was complete. Most of those new towers appear to be reisdential, but nice developments. It will happen for Oklahoma City. You wait. Just like I new in 1993 that MAPS completely redefine OKC, I know that this will soon come to pass. And it will happen with a vengeance.

[Karried]

That was really nice ... when do you get to come home?

[OUman]

Good points to remember when the city's in a lull or or even otherwise.

[writerranger]

Great post! It could be simply a "there's no place like home," kind of thing - or - it could be an excitement at seeing a city on the move that's not really appreciated until you've been away for a while. Maybe a little of both. Whatever it is, your love for this city comes through loud and clear. Nicely written and again, a great post.

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[Luke]

Thanks for that!

[y_h]

Truer words could not be spoken. I can't exactly describe what it is about Oklahoma City that creates that sensation of home - I suppose "magic" is as good a word as any.

I came to Oklahoma City in 1990 to attend OCU law school (on the recommendation of a cousin from St. Louis who had graduated from there and decided to stay). I was fresh out of college, having just graduated from the University of Missouri at Columbia. I grew up just 30 miles away in Jefferson City, so I really didn't count my four undergrad years as truly living away from home - OKC was indeed my first real experience living on my own. For the first year and a half I had an apartment at Warwick West out on NW Expressway and got to know that part of town quite well. I used to enjoy killing what little free time I had at Penn Square Mall and 50 Penn Place, grocery shopping at Crescent Market and Friday night happy hours at the Varsity with my law school cohorts. On Saturdays my study group would spend 6-8 hours working on our course outlines and then cap the day off with cocktails and dinner at the Metro. This was a Saturday ritual that lasted for over two years. In the spring and early fall when the weather was still warm it wasn't unusual for a group of us to cut out for an extended lunch on the patio at Doc's (which I'm told is now Irma's) or, if we had the rare luxury of time, we'd head out west to Bunny's for an infamous onion fried burger or my personal favorite, the Frito Pie. During the winter we'd warm ourselves at the Split T (R.I.P.) with a bowl of Texas Red and their incredible handcut fries.

At school I was impressed by the diverse background of the faculty. We had a number of professors from the east coast, California, Texas, Florida and Chicago. All of them had chosen to make their homes in Oklahoma City and they all had wonderful things to say about it.

During the second half of my time at law school I lived out in the Stonebridge Cove development right outside of Yukon. Sure, there was a bit more of a commute involved with getting to classes every day but it was worth it. I enjoyed the experience of living in the Bethany-Yukon area and getting to know the people and businesses in that area as well. This was also just about the time when the Blazers came (back) into being. Having grown up a hockey fan, I was ecstatic at the prospect of being able to watch pro hockey at an affordable price. That first season was a really fun time even though the hated Oilers wound up winning the playoff championship. Another business opened up my final year in OKC - a little coffee shop on Western called the Yippee Yi Yo Cafe. That establishment became the official hangout of my circle of law school friends - we'd congregate there in the early morning before classes and often wind up there on weekend nights, especially on "Sinatra Saturdays" when we'd sit out on the front porch with our coffee and cigars (a smug, obnoxious - but well mannered, mind you - bunch we were), listening to Ol' Blue Eyes. Ah, good times.

So, here it is, thirteen years past my departing OKC as a resident and twelve years past my last visit, but yet I still feel tied into the community. Why? For me I just think that Oklahoma City is a terrific place to live. It's extremely affordable; the people are as nice as can be; the city is very clean and there's an abundance of activities to suit just about everyone's interests. It's also a very easy city to navigate; there's lots of diverse and interesting neighborhoods and commercial districts and (as you can certainly divine from my reminiscences above) plenty of great places to eat! Oklahoma City combines Midwestern values, Southern hospitality and a cosmopolitan aura without pretense. It is quite simply a great place to be.

As I've mentioned in a number of other threads in this community, I'm coming "home" for a visit in a couple of weeks and I can't wait. My best friend from law school and I are going to spend the better part of four days revisiting old friends and seeing all that's new from the last dozen years since we last made our pilgrimage. We intend on making it an annual event.

So, for those of you lucky enough to reside in the OKC area, don't get bogged down in what isn't working right now. Focus on your strengths and work up from there. You're living in one of the finest places to be in America as far as I'm concerned - more of the good stuff will come once others get attuned to the OKC vibe. That's why I suggested in another thread that the city make more of an effort to put folks on the payroll who do nothing but focus on two core missions - cultivating potential growth businesses from within and actively recruiting outside businesses to consider OKC as a new home or outpost. It shouldn't be hard to sell OKC once people spend time here. Had I not had preexisiting commitments in St. Louis, I certainly would have liked to have stayed after law school. So for now I'll have to make do with annual visits.

[floater]

You'll never realize what was a part of you for so long until you feel its absence... in another state.

Yeah. It's not tangible, and not simply homesickness. You find you miss things about Oklahoma City that you liked and even thought you disliked.

[Doug Loudenback]

OkcPulse, what a nice thread you started! (My grandson is still enjoying the computer you sold me, BTW.) So, when are you going to exit the Houston area and "come home"?

Your post waxed nostalgic ... I take mild exception to only one thing ...

And I noticed a big difference in Oklahoma and Texas, and that is cohesivesness. Everyone was wearing their OU clothing for the game, and while to some that may be overkill, to a new out-of-stater, you get the feeling that everyone is on the same page. And somehow you want to be a part of it all.

Well, as an OSU guy, I've never worn the crimson & cream, but, I do root for OU, just the same.

But, your point about cohesiveness is true.

The 1st instance that I think of is horribly negative, the Murrah bombing and its aftermath. In that miserable time, lines of cars flowed downtown from all directions bringing food, supplies, whaterver. Everyone cared and everyone cried. Some of us (me) still cry when writing a simple message like this, and I'm not able to put together a blog post on this , and I don't plan to.

But, the 2nd instance that comes to mind is wholly and altogether positive ... the city has found itself to be a single unified entity in its emphatuation of and support for the NBA team we've had the good fortune to host for 2 seasons, the Hornets ... all people in the city, rich or poor, OU, OSU, no-U, black, white, native Americans, Asians, etc., have a common identity. That's been one of the best results of the Hornets being in Okc, in my opinion. Hopefully, we'll have another team down the road when the Hornets leave, but the experience has truly been unifying and that has been great!

y h, your post was also made from a distance, St. Louis, and yours was from a non-native's point of view (in the sense that you were not a native Oklahoman). In my 1st marriage, ending in 1981, I lived in the residential area immediately south of the Warwick West Apartments on NW 54th street. Since then, I've opted for quarters just north of downtown.

Born here in 1943, I wasn't reared in Okc. In my adolescent days, I then thought that Lawton was the center of the universe! But, while in law school at OU, I decided that this place would be my home after I did a 2 year stint in the army. That happened. I've lamented and waxed ad nauseam about the "old" Oklahoma City ... John A. Brown's, the movie theaters that neither of you (OkcPulse & y h) ever had a chance to visit, etc. etc. etc.

I will say that my pride in Okc suffered greatly in the 70s-80s when a third or so of downtown Oklahoma City was destroyed and the remnant became nothing but a 9 to 5 place to work ... no shops, no fun, Skirvin closing for years, etc.

But, the tide did turn ... the spirit of what must have been present in the early days as Oklahoma City was burgeoning before any of us were born has again spread over this grand place we call "home" and has graced us all. We are proud of our homeplace once again, at least, I am. That's such a great great feeling to have!

Some have not been all that complimentary of the Centennial melody by Jimmy Webb & Vince Gill, but, I'm not one of the naysayers. I love the feeling of pride conveyed in the tune and I love the song ...

We're Oklahoma rising,
Brighter than the sun
Stand up and sing about her,
Let the world know who we are
* * *
I'm an Okie and I'm proud
When you call me an Okie
Man, you better say it loud

OkcPulse, you said, "I still proudly proclaim myself to be from Oklahoma City." Me too, you! Come home soon!

[floater]

It is a great song. Gill and Webb did us proud:

We're Oklahoma Risin', brighter than a star
Stand up and sing about her, let the world know
who we are

From a rugged territory to the Oklahoma Run
We've made our dreams come true,
just look at what we've done
We're the Heartland of America,
our heart is in the race
We've sailed our prairie schooners
right into outer space
We are young and we are strong,
we are comin' with a roar
Sooner than later we'll be knockin' on your door
Say hello to the future,
gonna shake the future's hand
and build a better world
upon this sacred land

We're Oklahoma Risin', brighter than a star
Stand up and sing about her let the world know who we are
We're the sons and the daughters, children of the West We're Oklahoma Risin', risin' up to be the best

Guts and grace and mercy, we have shown them in our turn
When the fields had turned to dust and the skies began to burn
When the storm shook our souls and the mighty buildings fell
Through fires and desperation our faith has served us well
I choke back the emotion, I'm an Okie and I'm proud
So when you call me Okie, man, you better say it loud
Now we look into the heavens at the eagles climbing free
It's the spirit of our people on the wing, can you see?

Repeat Chorus 2 Twice

[Doug Loudenback]

Good job, Floater! I've not seen the complete lyrics on the internet ... where did you find them?

[floater]

Sorry, forgot to attribute. It's from Adam Knapp of about.com:

Oklahoma Centennial Song - Lyrics Celebrate 100 Years of Statehood

[Doug Loudenback]

FYI, the venerable Downtown Guy has posted about this great thread in his blog ... check it out ... Downtown OKC: October 2006

[Spartan]

Does anybody remember that old thread I created about OKC boosterism.....I think I got called a blind OKC booster in that thread, but it's hard to remember.

I'll just keep my mouth shut then on why OKC is the best place in the world.

[okcpulse]

OkcPulse, what a nice thread you started! (My grandson is still enjoying the computer you sold me, BTW.) So, when are you going to exit the Houston area and "come home"?

Glad to hear your grandson is still enjoying the notebook PC! My wife and I will return to Oklahoma once our duties here in Texas have been fulfilled.

[Doug Loudenback]

I've posted an "Oklahoma Rising" Flash file which contains the music with animations, largely Oklahoma City pics. It's described in my blog at Doug Dawgz Blog: Oklahoma Rising but the actual file is here: Oklahoma Rising . I forgot to credit Jimmy Webb as well as Vince Gill and I'll eventually fix that. [edited note: that's now fixed]

A few of the "slides" (non-animated, of course) are below.

During the Native American instrumental intro ...













During the "song" part ...




















The song and flash file ends with a few Bricktown pics ...





A couple of the pics are Spartan's ... Skirvin with lots of scaffolding and Bricktown with streaking car lights.

[Karried]

That's really nice.

[Doug Loudenback]

Thanks, Karrie.

[SOONER8693]

Outstanding! Very nice work. I found it very moving. Thank you.

[Doug Loudenback]

Thanks, SOONER8693!

I've revised the file trying to make it "smaller" ... which I did, very slightly, but have managed to fit in a dozen or so images not in the original (Ford Center, River, etc.).

Appreciate any feedback as I don't know how it runs on any computers other than my own. It seems to work better (i.e., pic and sound transition) in IE 6 than Firefox (in which the pics outpace the soundtrack). Don't know what to do about that.

[Doug Loudenback]

I have SUBSTANTIALLY revied the Oklahoma Rising Flash file at my blog, Doug Dawgz Blog: Oklahoma Rising . and, additionally I've added a new post, Oklahoma City Downtown Around Statehood, which is a collection of about 45 images depicting downtown around statehood, plus or minus a few years of either side, together with a bit of descriptive text. The full file is at Doug Dawgz Blog: Downtown Around Statehood

Some of these images are posted below.

Farmers Market on California


Post Offices, 1889, 1890, and 1912






Lee Hotel, 1900, and Lee Huckins in 1909




Capitol being moved in 1913


India Temple, temp home of the legislature 1913-1917


The Oklahoman, 1896 and 1910




County Courthouse around 1902-1905


1902 Carnegie Library


Broadway in 1908


State National (Hales) around 1910


Herskowitz Building, 1910

There's lots more, for those interested in such things! Enjoy!

[adaniel]

OMG Doug, those pics are amazing! You are definatley a great resource for OKC History. I was wondering if you knew where I could get an old street map (b/w 1930 and 1960) of OKC. I have been searching the net for months now to no avail. I would love to see how the city has grown and I would also like to use it as a reference to see where my family (grandparents and great grandparents) grew up.

[Doug Loudenback]

Thanks!

As for maps, the okc downtown library, in the "Oklahoma Room" on the 2nd floor, has city atlases etc. going back at least to 1900 ... I don't think they've been digitalized so to be on-line, though. They also have a copier that makes large pages and the price is right, too. That's where I'd start if you've had no luck on the internet.

[Jack Wonder]

I don't have anything significant to add to this thread right now, but it has been a treat to read!

From the initial spark to the rendered illustrations from years past, these comments capitalize a strong sense of cyber community that exists OUTSIDE of the internet while enjoyed within the restraints of OKCTalk.