Re: Is Cattleman's' about the best steakhouse?
I ate at Cattlemen's hundreds of times between the late 50's and mid-90's. I was acquainted with the Wade family and was on a first name basis with several of the wait staff. As a high school student making my spending money by delivering newspapers, Sunday morning would find me and a handful of friends enjoying breakfast at Cattleman’s. As a HS senior, I took a job at a western wear store in The Stock Yards and ate there four or five times a week. At one time there was a Cattleman’s Drive In; located about three blocks east on Exchange Blvd., that had great burgers, hand cut fries and terrific hot fudge sundaes.
It was sad to watch the restaurant decline as Gene Wade and the key employees at the restaurant got older, faded from the scene, or no longer had the energy to maintain the high quality standards that contributed to the restaurant's success. I was hopeful that the place would return to putting excellent food on the table when Dick Stubbs took over a few years ago. He cleaned it up and, wisely, didn't change the menu very much. It looked like Cattleman’s would be back on track as my favorite steak place and a good breakfast spot as well. Unfortunately, that has not been the case, at least for me.
I have only eaten there a half-dozen times in the last ten years and with one exception, I have been disappointed. In its heyday, Cattleman’s brought their beef in as full sides and completed the butchering process in their kitchen. They served a lot of hand cut, aged prime beef that is virtually unavailable today. The Wades were cattle ranchers and had a unique appreciation and passion for the beef they sold. Today, the menu features only one “Special” item that could rival the steaks served in the past, but it usually doesn’t make the grade either. Perhaps my tastes have changed and Cattleman's is exactly the same as it always was, but I don't think so. What seems to be missing is the restaurateur. The ever present owner that checks the food as it comes from the kitchen, visits with regulars and newcomers at their table, makes sure everything is clean and neat and keeps the entire staff on its toes. Stubbs is a good business man, and Cattleman’s is a very busy place these days. But it is now one of those “Famous Restaurants” that trades on its reputation but no longer actually delivers what made it famous.
These days, I get my steaks in OKC at Nomad II or La Baguette; both on north May Avenue, or Cheever’s located at NW 23rd and Hudson. Newton’s, though no longer in the hands of the original owner, just off Western on NW 70th is also a good choice.
The Old Downtown Guy
It will take decades for Oklahoma City's
downtown core to regain its lost gritty,
dynamic urban character, but it's exciting
to observe and participate in the transformation.
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