My 2007 Honda Civic got its rear quarter panel smashed by a stupid driver that didn't look before turning into the wrong lane, and it's possibly going to be totalled. Haven't bought a car since 2007, no idea what the best way is right now, don't even know what to look for (other than another 2-door smaller car) as far as year, make, model, etc. I do have a Consumer Reports membership, so will be checking things out there, but wondering what app(s) I should look at, if Carvana would be the way to go, should I just look online, go to Carmax, go to lots, etc. - anybody have any hints/tips? Thx much for any help...

Prices super high right now because there is a shortage of cars for sale overall.

If it is still fully functional, then you might consider "retaining salvage" if it does total. Meaning they pay you pre-loss value for your car and then deduct for what they can sell your car for at the salvage pool. Since your car is over 10 years old it will not be marked as a total loss and your title will not change.

Drive it until the market corrects and then buy a newer car at a better price. Your Honda will always have a decent market, regardless of damage.

Prices super high right now because there is a shortage of cars for sale overall.

If it is still fully functional, then you might consider "retaining salvage" if it does total. Meaning they pay you pre-loss value for your car and then deduct for what they can sell your car for at the salvage pool. Since your car is over 10 years old it will not be marked as a total loss and your title will not change.

Drive it until the market corrects and then buy a newer car at a better price. Your Honda will always have a decent market, regardless of damage.

Great info to know, thanks, we aren't sure of the procedure if it gets totalled, so we contacted the other driver's insurance co to get some guidance, but this helps. Unfortunately, it appears the wheel well liner appears to be rubbing against the tire going over bumps, so something will have to be repaired for that, at the very least, otherwise it is drivable. I don't think my specific Honda has a decent market, though - its clearcoat is sh*t (one of the recalls) and the paint is ridiculously bad all over except the rear quarter panels, roof rails, and trunk lid that got repainted because that's all my VIN qualified for (yes, I was baffled too), and it has to be taken down to bare metal and completely repainted, and the estimator today said that'd be about $3500 or so to do that, and that's about all the car's actually worth right now (the 2007 is part of the generation that Honda just completely screwed up in almost every way possible).

I agree. The used market is bonkers. I sold my extra care for almost 2k more than it would have gone for a few years ago just because I needed the garage space. Had people wanting to buy it in cash 2 hours after listing. It used to take me a month or so to sell my cars.

If you have to give it up just be prepared to shop around for a long while. I find the best deals of Facebook Market usually or find one at a dealer and haggle it down for a few weeks. Just know the value of the car. Also a heads up, consumer reports is free online if you have an Library Card. I use it all the time.

I agree. The used market is bonkers. I sold my extra care for almost 2k more than it would have gone for a few years ago just because I needed the garage space. Had people wanting to buy it in cash 2 hours after listing. It used to take me a month or so to sell my cars.

If you have to give it up just be prepared to shop around for a long while. I find the best deals of Facebook Market usually or find one at a dealer and haggle it down for a few weeks. Just know the value of the car. Also a heads up, consumer reports is free online if you have an Library Card. I use it all the time.

I've actually got a subscription to CR, it's auto-renewed for a couple of years, should just give it up and use it through the library, thx for the reminder!

I bought my 3 year old lease return Accord in 2020 through Car Gurus. I was however looking for a hard to locate trim line so I had to go to Austin to get it. You can narrow or expand your search geographically as well as filter the results of what you want.

Might see what they offer you and see what it would cost to fix.

Several years ago a driver turned into my 97 Dodge and the estimate to repair was $2200 and inurance totalled the truck for $2100.... Yes I asked them to come up with the additional $100 and they refused.

Long story short.... Took it to Maaco and got it repaired for $600 and pocketed the rest.... Still driving the truck today.

Might see what they offer you and see what it would cost to fix.

Several years ago a driver turned into my 97 Dodge and the estimate to repair was $2200 and inurance totalled the truck for $2100.... Yes I asked them to come up with the additional $100 and they refused.

Long story short.... Took it to Maaco and got it repaired for $600 and pocketed the rest.... Still driving the truck today.

Offer is about $6000 to total, about $1200 or so less if I retain salvage, estimate we got was $4500 to fix. Might take it somewhere else to get another estimate, but it's a POS, so I'll probably just bend the wheel well metal back up so it doesn't rub on the tire, get a new tire, and drive it for a few more months, then get something else when the market calms down. Thx for the info on here, helped quite a bit.

Speaking of the used car market being crazy right now, how would I know when it gets better - if the prices people want are close to what KBB (or some other place) says it's worth, or are there some other markers?

Offer is about $6000 to total, about $1200 or so less if I retain salvage, estimate we got was $4500 to fix. Might take it somewhere else to get another estimate, but it's a POS, so I'll probably just bend the wheel well metal back up so it doesn't rub on the tire, get a new tire, and drive it for a few more months, then get something else when the market calms down. Thx for the info on here, helped quite a bit.

Speaking of the used car market being crazy right now, how would I know when it gets better - if the prices people want are close to what KBB (or some other place) says it's worth, or are there some other markers?

It will kind of be like Cars for Clunker days, going to be a few years I imagine.

It will kind of be like Cars for Clunker days, going to be a few years I imagine.

Why a few years? Seems like new cars/trucks/SUVs will be back in the pipeline by the end of the year, maybe, if the chip supply gets back in shape, and then the used car market will go back to normal-ish, but maybe I don't know how it's all working now. Personally, I don't care about buying new, doesn't seem like there are any reasonable/normal 2-door coupes being made new, so I'm going to have to do used. so I just care about the impact that the slowdown in new manufacturing has on the used-car market,

Why a few years? Seems like new cars/trucks/SUVs will be back in the pipeline by the end of the year, maybe, if the chip supply gets back in shape, and then the used car market will go back to normal-ish, but maybe I don't know how it's all working now. Personally, I don't care about buying new, doesn't seem like there are any reasonable/normal 2-door coupes being made new, so I'm going to have to do used. so I just care about the impact that the slowdown in new manufacturing has on the used-car market,

I dont expect chip manufacturing to catch up until next year. If all the used cars are picked up then it will take a few years for people to sell those to get new cars. Also the job market has to stabilize again for people to take out loans on new vehicles.

You also have the car dealership affect that occurred. Dealers knew that factories were shutting down before everyone else did, and bought up as much of the used car market in their respective areas as possible because they saw the writing on the wall.

I think new car production will normalize by the end of the year. The endless media stories about used car prices will pretty well keep us informed about that market.

I think you are on the right track in keeping the car and bonking out the wheelwell. Just about any used Honda that runs and has cold-ish AC will bring $2000-2500 any time of the year.

Thanks, y'all, didn't even think about dealers buying up used inventory, makes sense, though, ugh...

Prices super high right now because there is a shortage of cars for sale overall.

If it is still fully functional, then you might consider "retaining salvage" if it does total. Meaning they pay you pre-loss value for your car and then deduct for what they can sell your car for at the salvage pool. Since your car is over 10 years old it will not be marked as a total loss and your title will not change.

Drive it until the market corrects and then buy a newer car at a better price. Your Honda will always have a decent market, regardless of damage.

So it appears that my car *will* be marked as a total loss *and* I have to surrender my title and get a salvage title back. USAA (the other person's insurance co.) said this is according to Oklahoma Statute 47, section 1111.

Edit - did some reading in the statute and apparently within 30 days, the title has to be turned over, I get a salvage title, but if it's fixed and inspected, I can get the original title back after paying some fees. Need to call the OTC and find out if I can just pound the wheel well back out, get a new tire and not screw with the titling mess if it's all done within 30 days, but I'd bet they say no, that I have to go through the administrative screwed-up retitling BS anyway.

Norman just had a major hail storm. You might head down to the mile of cars and see if they can sell you something cheap...

Norman just had a major hail storm. You might head down to the mile of cars and see if they can sell you something cheap...

Thanks, but not worth the extra hassle, going to be ridiculous enough just to get the title done right at this point, don't need to mess with hail damage, etc.. Got enough going on in my life right now, just want to drive my car for a little longer until I have enough time to do some research on how few 2-door cars with a trunk there are out there. :(

So it appears that my car *will* be marked as a total loss *and* I have to surrender my title and get a salvage title back. USAA (the other person's insurance co.) said this is according to Oklahoma Statute 47, section 1111.

Edit - did some reading in the statute and apparently within 30 days, the title has to be turned over, I get a salvage title, but if it's fixed and inspected, I can get the original title back after paying some fees. Need to call the OTC and find out if I can just pound the wheel well back out, get a new tire and not screw with the titling mess if it's all done within 30 days, but I'd bet they say no, that I have to go through the administrative screwed-up retitling BS anyway.

Cars over 10 years old are exempt from the title surrender and marking salvage requirement. I recall yours was a 2007 model? Check with your tag agent. It is not uncommon for a large insurance company adjuster to be unfamiliar with individual state laws and give you directive that is not necessary.

I can say for certain that State Farm totaled one of my workers 2006 Accord last month and did not mark the title. I know, because I helped him with the negotiation with them.

Cars over 10 years old are exempt from the title surrender and marking salvage requirement. I recall yours was a 2007 model? Check with your tag agent. It is not uncommon for a large insurance company adjuster to be unfamiliar with individual state laws and give you directive that is not necessary.

I can say for certain that State Farm totaled one of my workers 2006 Accord last month and did not mark the title. I know, because I helped him with the negotiation with them.

Thanks, I have an email in to the OTC, but will just call Classen Tag today or tomorrow, thanks again for the info (statute didn't mention anything about 10+ year old cars being exempt, but I haven't read it all yet, so may be in another section).

In Title 47, Chapter 74, section 1111 "Payment of Total Loss Claim - Certificate of Title":


5. "Vehicle" means a vehicle, as defined in paragraph 40 of Section 1102 of this title, manufactured within the last ten (10) model years.

Maybe that means you don't have to follow the same title rules for a car that was a total loss if it is older than 10 years, because it isn't considered a vehicle?

In Title 47, Chapter 74, section 1111 "Payment of Total Loss Claim - Certificate of Title":



Maybe that means you don't have to follow the same title rules for a car that was a total loss if it is older than 10 years, because it isn't considered a vehicle?

I think they got the law changed because they had so many older hail damaged cars that were perfectly drivable, but the owners were burdened with the title gymnastics. And most collision totaled cars over 10 years old are really damaged.

Thanks, had just kinda skipped over the definitions, didn't think I needed to know what "vehicle" meant, guess I was wrong. :(

Thanks, had just kinda skipped over the definitions, didn't think I needed to know what "vehicle" meant, guess I was wrong. :(

A vehicle over 10 years old is still a vehicle. It just isn't a "vehicle". Clear as mud?

A vehicle over 10 years old is still a vehicle. It just isn't a "vehicle". Clear as mud?

Ha, I should be used to that kind of stuff, wife is a proofing specialist for the OK House...

If you decide to get another car I can vouch for Carvana. Two years ago I got my car totaled in Rocky Man Nat'l Park and went on Caravan the next morning and found the same model with a slight upgrade and had it bought and financed in less than an hour. It was delivered a day or two after I got home. Best car purchasing experience of my life.

If you decide to get another car I can vouch for Carvana. Two years ago I got my car totaled in Rocky Man Nat'l Park and went on Caravan the next morning and found the same model with a slight upgrade and had it bought and financed in less than an hour. It was delivered a day or two after I got home. Best car purchasing experience of my life.

Thx, I was going to give them and Carmax a shot first, good to know. Buying online is great, we actually did it for the first time when we bought my wife's 2003 Honda new in IL, it was so fantastic to not have to deal with the dealer crap...

Thx, I was going to give them and Carmax a shot first, good to know. Buying online is great, we actually did it for the first time when we bought my wife's 2003 Honda new in IL, it was so fantastic to not have to deal with the dealer crap... I HATE!!!!! dealer crap. I know full well I gave too much for my 2 year old car because I got caught up in the "I really like this car" crap. And I know better. Did it anyway. At least I'm really happy with the car. But my next car will be bought online so I won't have to deal in person. I'm much more outgoing/confident/hard nosed on the internet.

An excellent resource for anyone in the market for a car, new or used, and all kinds of extremely useful information regarding the whole car business: https://yourautoadvocate.com/

Without going into much detail (so you can discover the delights of the site for yourselves) this father (dealer sales for over 40 years) and son (tech guy, reaches the young audience) have put together the best site I have ever encountered for car information and purchasing. Please take a look, it's basically a free site for the information, with an ability to add services to your account at any time.

An excellent resource for anyone in the market for a car, new or used, and all kinds of extremely useful information regarding the whole car business: https://yourautoadvocate.com/

Without going into much detail (so you can discover the delights of the site for yourselves) this father (dealer sales for over 40 years) and son (tech guy, reaches the young audience) have put together the best site I have ever encountered for car information and purchasing. Please take a look, it's basically a free site for the information, with an ability to add services to your account at any time.

Will take a look, thanks.

I HATE!!!!! dealer crap. I know full well I gave too much for my 2 year old car because I got caught up in the "I really like this car" crap. And I know better. Did it anyway. At least I'm really happy with the car. But my next car will be bought online so I won't have to deal in person. I'm much more outgoing/confident/hard nosed on the internet.

I'm one of those people who just looks up the invoice price of the car and tries to get it down to that price. Subaru made it easy for my wife's car. You just donate money to a charity and they get you a car at 2% below invoice with no haggling. The dealer orders it, it comes in, pay and leave. Best experience of my life.

Argh, need one last bit of help, please. Insurance company has sent paperwork requesting Power of Attorney, title transfer, etc. again (with me as the owner, they previously had my wife as the owner since she was driving it and reported it). Since the car is older than 10 years, I believe the process for owner retained salvage here in OK appears to be that I keep the car, keep the title, keep the tag, they deduct the salvage value from the offer, write me a check, (and I pull the dent out and get a new tire) and that's it. Or am I wrong and it truly is more complicated? Thx....

Argh, need one last bit of help, please. Insurance company has sent paperwork requesting Power of Attorney, title transfer, etc. again (with me as the owner, they previously had my wife as the owner since she was driving it and reported it). Since the car is older than 10 years, I believe the process for owner retained salvage here in OK appears to be that I keep the car, keep the title, keep the tag, they deduct the salvage value from the offer, write me a check, (and I pull the dent out and get a new tire) and that's it. Or am I wrong and it truly is more complicated? Thx....

I think you are right. I recall USAA hit you and are the company you are dealing with? I had some dealings with them within the last couple years and must say that they are not focused on nuance or attention to detail in customer relations. Company policy is what they hammer their young and inexperienced work force with. You might be 100% correct about how the process on 10 plus year old total losses is to be dealt with, they just don't care, and will try to force you into following USAA company policy.

I can't speak directly as it relates to USAA, but we do sometimes wind up in situations where companies just have a different interpretation of the law. The quickest example I can give you is that Allstate interprets the law to require a vehicle that needs the frame replaced to be a total loss, while most other companies will replace a frame if it makes economic sense.

More than most times I have to emphasize that YOU are your only advocate in dealing with insurance companies. Stick to your guns. You are correct and will ultimately prevail, in my opinion.

I think you are right. I recall USAA hit you and are the company you are dealing with? I had some dealings with them within the last couple years and must say that they are not focused on nuance or attention to detail in customer relations. Company policy is what they hammer their young and inexperienced work force with. You might be 100% correct about how the process on 10 plus year old total losses is to be dealt with, they just don't care, and will try to force you into following USAA company policy.

I can't speak directly as it relates to USAA, but we do sometimes wind up in situations where companies just have a different interpretation of the law. The quickest example I can give you is that Allstate interprets the law to require a vehicle that needs the frame replaced to be a total loss, while most other companies will replace a frame if it makes economic sense.

More than most times I have to emphasize that YOU are your only advocate in dealing with insurance companies. Stick to your guns. You are correct and will ultimately prevail, in my opinion.

Thanks for the confirmation. I plan on emailing my local State Farm agent and getting his take on it. And yeah, I think they're just trying to assembly-line it through. It appears that due to OK statute, if damages are greater than 60% of the vehicle's worth, then they total it, and this was just about that (haven't done the actual calculations), so they're playing by the rules.

Thanks for the confirmation. I plan on emailing my local State Farm agent and getting his take on it. And yeah, I think they're just trying to assembly-line it through. It appears that due to OK statute, if damages are greater than 60% of the vehicle's worth, then they total it, and this was just about that (haven't done the actual calculations), so they're playing by the rules.

....yeeaahhh....get ready for another excursion into weedville. I have been told many times that the wording is "damage to the safety related components of the vehicle exceed 60% of the pre-loss value". Within a year of that rule passing insurance companies decided that paint; moldings and decorative trim; front fenders and even back glass could be excluded from the 60% calculation. Quickly we got back to the situation where the formula is pre loss value minus salvage value = cut off line for total or repair.

Wow! I didn't know this process had become so complicated. Back in the 70s and 80s, my hot rodding heyday, I totaled a couple of cars that I really wanted the motors and trannys out of. I'd spent a lot of lot of time and money building them. Then you sat down with the adjuster and agreed to an amount and walked away with a check and your wrecked car. I miss simpler times.
BTW, Travellers, from the area you've suggested you live I probably drove your street at WAY over the speed limit in 76 and 77 pretty much daily. Hey, I was young and very crazy.

OK, so here's what I've found out so far.

http://webserver1.lsb.state.ok.us/OK_Statutes/CompleteTitles/os47.rtf (link to the statutes)

47-1105. Definitions - Certificate of title - Application - Evidence of ownership and compliance with federal law -
Liens and encumbrances - Fees - Notice of nonuse or theft.
A. As used in the Oklahoma Vehicle License and Registration Act:
1. "Salvage vehicle" means any vehicle which is within the last ten (10) model years and which has been damaged by
collision or other occurrence to the extent that the cost of repairing the vehicle for safe operation on the highway
exceeds sixty percent (60%) of its fair market value, as defined by Section 1111 of this title, immediately prior to the damage.
For purposes of this section, actual repair costs shall only include labor and parts for actual damage to the
suspension, motor, transmission, frame or unibody and designated structural components;

This validates what Dob said earlier about including only labor and parts, not paint, supplies, etc.

§47-1111. Salvage title - New title.
A. As used in this section:
5. "Vehicle" means a vehicle, as defined in paragraph 40 of Section 1102 of this title, manufactured within the last ten (10) model years.

This should mean that since my car is a 2007 model, none of the rest of the section applies and I do not need to get a salvage title, inspection after repair, etc., but I need to verify that with the OTC.

OTC said they need to have a percentage of the repair costs (as stated above) vs. fair market value to know how to proceed. Apparently no matter how old it is, if the repair costs to make it safely operable on a highway exceed 80% of the car's fair market value, the car must be junked and a junk title must be created. But if it's less than 80%, my interpretation is that if it's between 60-80% *and* the car is newer than 10 model years and the insurance company declares it a total loss, you have to get a salvage title, and you can choose to have them pay you the value after the salvage cost is deducted from the fair market value, then repair it yourself and get it inspected and then get a new regular title or you can just get the fair market value and turn everything over to them. If the car is older than 10 model years, I believe you can have the insurance company pay you the fair market value (subtracting the salvage cost), and there is no title transfer, no inspection, nothing else, and you're done. In my case, the cost of parts and labor are approximately $3000, and the fair market value of the car is a bit less than $6000. So it's older than 10 years, the percentage is obviously less than 80% (and maybe even less than 60% since it's restricted to parts and labor only), USAA should just write me a check and it's done. However, I need to verify with OTC, since I didn't have the amounts and percentages handy when I was on the phone with them yesterday.

Wow! I didn't know this process had become so complicated. Back in the 70s and 80s, my hot rodding heyday, I totaled a couple of cars that I really wanted the motors and trannys out of. I'd spent a lot of lot of time and money building them. Then you sat down with the adjuster and agreed to an amount and walked away with a check and your wrecked car. I miss simpler times.
BTW, Travellers, from the area you've suggested you live I probably drove your street at WAY over the speed limit in 76 and 77 pretty much daily. Hey, I was young and very crazy.

Ha, you'd be in good company nowadays, there are some that still speed down Venice like crazy... And yes, I miss simpler times too, but this would be made way easier if USAA and OTC would just answer emails!

Called OTC and they basically said to take it up with USAA, they couldn't advise me on what appears to be a clear-cut statute that basically says "Do this if your car is newer than 10 years old".

Anybody know a lawyer that isn't that expensive that would be willing to take this on and validate that the procedure I think should happen is what really should happen and send something to USAA that says "Client's car is over 10 years old, and according to this statute, nothing in it applies because of that, no title transfer needs to be done, you don't get the car or title, just write a check"?

Called OTC and they basically said to take it up with USAA, they couldn't advise me on what appears to be a clear-cut statute that basically says "Do this if your car is newer than 10 years old".

Anybody know a lawyer that isn't that expensive that would be willing to take this on and validate that the procedure I think should happen is what really should happen and send something to USAA that says "Client's car is over 10 years old, and according to this statute, nothing in it applies because of that, no title transfer needs to be done, you don't get the car or title, just write a check"?

I just saw your posts. Sorry I didn't respond earlier.

Main thing to remember is that insurance companies only care about the Insurance Commissioner. Look at Insurance Commissioner website and see if there is a way to file a complaint online. I know there used to be, but don't know if it has changed within the last couple years. I don't think you need an attorney yet, and one isn't gonna touch your case because there isn't any money in property damage.

OTC and any other state agency don't want anything to do with your complaint. And won't be helpful.

Lemme check tomorrow if I have any connections with USAA who might be able to help us understand the way to work the system nowadays.

My best advice through the years in dealing with insurance companies is to remain calm, know your end goal, and to politely request to speak to the next rung up the ladder. Explain that you respectfully believe the law is on your side and you are trying to follow the law, rather than company policy. Respect that each person you are talking to is just doing what they are told and have no idea if they are right.

I just saw your posts. Sorry I didn't respond earlier.

Main thing to remember is that insurance companies only care about the Insurance Commissioner. Look at Insurance Commissioner website and see if there is a way to file a complaint online. I know there used to be, but don't know if it has changed within the last couple years. I don't think you need an attorney yet, and one isn't gonna touch your case because there isn't any money in property damage.

OTC and any other state agency don't want anything to do with your complaint. And won't be helpful.

Lemme check tomorrow if I have any connections with USAA who might be able to help us understand the way to work the system nowadays.

My best advice through the years in dealing with insurance companies is to remain calm, know your end goal, and to politely request to speak to the next rung up the ladder. Explain that you respectfully believe the law is on your side and you are trying to follow the law, rather than company policy. Respect that each person you are talking to is just doing what they are told and have no idea if they are right.

Thanks, and yep, that's pretty much what I've been doing and what I've gathered from this process... Need to try USAA again, I prefer email because everything's there in print, so there's proof, but I guess I need to check with a different dept. there. Just seems weird because they've already agreed to pay an amount I find fair, so all I want is to not mess with the whole titling thing and it'd be nice to just pay an attorney to take a quick look at what I think is the right procedure to follow and say yes, that's a correct interpretation or no, you're wrong, here's what needs to happen. Also need to get all the details I've gotten so far to my own agent to see what his take is.

Couple quick thoughts about an attorney-

1. Probably cost you at least $500. 2 hours minimum at $250/hour. That if the law is simple enough for them to review and render opinion that quickly.

2. If you “hire” an attorney the insurance company will usually no longer speak to you. They will speak to one representative of your property claim. They don’t care if it is you or lawyer, just not you AND lawyer.

Couple quick thoughts about an attorney-

1. Probably cost you at least $500. 2 hours minimum at $250/hour. That if the law is simple enough for them to review and render opinion that quickly.

2. If you “hire” an attorney the insurance company will usually no longer speak to you. They will speak to one representative of your property claim. They don’t care if it is you or lawyer, just not you AND lawyer.

I don't think I really need to "hire" an attorney, just want someone to look at a one-paragraph summary of what I think is the right process for this car in this state with this damage, and then tell me if I'm correct or off-base, so hopefully that won't be a huge cost, but yeah, I'm willing to shell out a little bit just to get confirmation or negation. Thx.

I don't think I really need to "hire" an attorney, just want someone to look at a one-paragraph summary of what I think is the right process for this car in this state with this damage, and then tell me if I'm correct or off-base, so hopefully that won't be a huge cost, but yeah, I'm willing to shell out a little bit just to get confirmation or negation. Thx.

Spoke to a friend who works for USAA. Explained that many of their employees work across multiple states and they might not be fully familiar with each states law. Suggested you be polite and stay on message while asking to speak to someone higher up the ladder. Also said to just tell them to google Oklahoma law. Said that is becoming more common for their employees and those of other companies that work multiple states.

Oh yeah. They said you are correct in your belief. Over 10 years old does not have to have the title surrendered or marked.

Spoke to a friend who works for USAA. Explained that many of their employees work across multiple states and they might not be fully familiar with each states law. Suggested you be polite and stay on message while asking to speak to someone higher up the ladder. Also said to just tell them to google Oklahoma law. Said that is becoming more common for their employees and those of other companies that work multiple states.

Oh yeah. They said you are correct in your belief. Over 10 years old does not have to have the title surrendered or marked.

Awesome, thanks for helping out... And yes, I can confirm that not everybody there at the title copart place knows all the state laws, was able to get through to someone from the title copart who found someone who knew OK law (had to go through 2 other people, and then he had to go to 2 other people while I was on hold). Took a while, but they finally said USAA just needs to send them a loss letter. Didn't know the intricacies and that the title copart people weren't part of USAA, learned lots from this whole thing...

Awesome, thanks for helping out... And yes, I can confirm that not everybody there at the title copart place knows all the state laws, was able to get through to someone from the title copart who found someone who knew OK law (had to go through 2 other people, and then he had to go to 2 other people while I was on hold). Took a while, but they finally said USAA just needs to send them a loss letter. Didn't know the intricacies and that the title copart people weren't part of USAA, learned lots from this whole thing...

If I could get you to take the time, can you kind of walk me through the process you went through on final settlement? I see the word "copart", so I am guessing USAA has hired Copart auto auction company to handle the title paperwork and financial details once a car is determined to be a total loss?

Were they nice? Were they informed, prepared and professional, etc?

Thanks

If I could get you to take the time, can you kind of walk me through the process you went through on final settlement? I see the word "copart", so I am guessing USAA has hired Copart auto auction company to handle the title paperwork and financial details once a car is determined to be a total loss?

Were they nice? Were they informed, prepared and professional, etc?

Thanks

Sure, it was actually a fairly decent experience. When you mentioned owner-retained salvage, I emailed the USAA adjuster and told them I wanted to do that, and they did all the calculations and sent me a PDF of how they arrived at my car's value, and the salvage value, and everything looked fine to me (they actually valued my car at more than I thought it was worth). Then we got FedEx-ed some paperwork from Copart (Power of Attorney, title transfer stuff, etc.). Since it was my wife that was driving at the time, they had her name as the owner instead of mine, so I emailed the adjuster to fix that and they did. Copart kept emailing every couple of days asking us to sign the paperwork, so I emailed back telling them I wasn't going to and here's what needed to be done, to no avail. Emailed the adjuster and they said they couldn't help, talk to Copart. Also talked to OTC about the 10-year-old thing and they had no clue how to interpret it, said they only follow directions from the insurance company.

On Friday, I called Copart and the first person that I talked to couldn't answer my questions, so she sent me to someone else, and when they answered, the first thing I said was that I needed to talk to someone about Oklahoma law regarding salvage titles, and she immediately said "Let me transfer you". So I ended up talking to Henry in the Title Procurement Division of Copart and he had to check with someone "in the Oklahoma yard", and also his manager, and then he said that USAA needs to send them a loss letter and they have until Tue to get it to them. Everybody at Copart was friendly, helpful, and found out what they/I needed to know, took about an hour on the phone, all told...

Called Copart today to make sure things were on track and first rep was clueless, was trying to tell me that because my car was older than 10 years that I had to do the whole POA/title signing over to them because it was so old, value was gone, etc. Asked immediately to escalate, then asked the next person if they had knowledge of OK law, she said she'd get a manager. Manager came on, didn't even ask me anything, had obviously looked at the claim in their system, found relevant info, and said USAA had sent them the letter and Copart was sending a notice to OTC that my car was a total loss, and I should be receiving a check in 3-4 business days.

Got the check from USAA yesterday, yay. Unfortunately I can't pull the dent out by myself, wondering if anybody knows of some place around NW 36th/May that would do it (can't drive very far because it rubs on the tire whenever it goes over a large enough bump)? Doesn't need painting or anything, just pulled out so it won't rub against the tire...

16859

I used these guys for a paintless dent repair and they were great:

https://www.facebook.com/OKCDentSHOP/

I used these guys for a paintless dent repair and they were great:

https://www.facebook.com/OKCDentSHOP/

Thx, I'll check them out.

You have Freeman's Collision at about 34th & May on the west side; and Collision Works, just north of OnCue.

If neither of those can help you, then please DM me

You have Freeman's Collision at about 34th & May on the west side; and Collision Works, just north of OnCue.

If neither of those can help you, then please DM me

Duh, completely forgot about Freeman's, was right by there yesterday, and didn't really know about Collision Works, thanks...

Got the check from USAA yesterday, yay. Unfortunately I can't pull the dent out by myself, wondering if anybody knows of some place around NW 36th/May that would do it (can't drive very far because it rubs on the tire whenever it goes over a large enough bump)? Doesn't need painting or anything, just pulled out so it won't rub against the tire...

16859

Freeman's, at 34th and May, is one of the best in the whole city.

Freeman's, at 34th and May, is one of the best in the whole city.

Yep, agree, thanks to you and Dob for reminding me of it. Took it in yesterday morning for an estimate, it came in where I thought it would, they said they could fix it yesterday, so I walked a few blocks home, walked back 3 hours later and it was done. Great place, agreed!

I thought I might be in the market for a new used, but prices for used is getting ridiculous.

Let me tell a story about how crazy the market is now.

In November of 2017 I purchased a 2013 Lexus GS350 AWD. It had 60,000 miles on it and I paid a very fair and reasonable $21,000 for it. I loved that car so much and never planned to sell it. But, we got a new camper and the wife's SUV, while rated for it, doesn't really pull the extra weight very well. So, I found myself car shopping at the worst possible time. Fortunately I found a decent deal on a large SUV, but I had to trade in my beloved AWD beauty to make it happen.

Last year when I was getting laid off I had all our cars valued to prepare for possibly liquidating if it became necessary. No matter which way or method I checked, I wasn't finding any valuation above $13000 for it.

Well, Audi OKC gave me $16000 for the trade on it. I was floored. I was hoping for $13000. (Side note: 2 days earlier Jim Norton Toyota offered me $11500 for the same trade. If they had been even close to fair on my trade I would be driving a new Tundra right now.)

I looked up the listing on my Lexus and they have it listed for $20,500. 3 and a half years older, 123,000 miles, and it's listed $500 less than what I paid for it in November of 2017. I can't believe how crazy this market is right now.

Yep, my barber said some dealer wanted to pay his brother $15K over what he paid for his F150 ($60K, I think) new when he bought it from the same dealer, and it's a year old. $400 later ($360 for the dent pulled out and $40 for new wheel cover) and I'm good until the craziness subsides.

Bought a 2016 VW Beetle convertible with 10k miles for my daughter in March 2017. I paid $19,500 at VW dealer. Was totaled from the hail storm in Norman last month. Finally settled the claim yesterday and received $22,500 for it. The car has 45k miles on it now four years later. They offered $17,500 but was able to use the current used car market to show I couldn't replace for less than $23K.

Speaking of buying a car, we have narrowed down our choices to a new 2021 Kia Sorento or a 2021 VW Tiguan. Do any of you have any experience good or bad with either of these vehicles?

Speaking of buying a car, we have narrowed down our choices to a new 2021 Kia Sorento or a 2021 VW Tiguan. Do any of you have any experience good or bad with either of these vehicles?

I am not very familiar with Kias so I will let others talks about those. I generally am not a huge fan of SK cars but I think they have started to make some big leaps in recent years.

I have owned a few VWs and Audi in the past. They are great cars. The number one thing you have to do is make sure the maintenance is done on time, always. Negotiate the extended warranty and get rid of it when that is up. I love driving German cars but never liked the maintenance. Keep those maintenance records and you will be able to resell it for a good amount.

Speaking of buying a car, we have narrowed down our choices to a new 2021 Kia Sorento or a 2021 VW Tiguan. Do any of you have any experience good or bad with either of these vehicles?

I have owned through my company 5 kias over the last several years with three in current fleet. I have owned 4 vws over last ten years and currently have a beetle convertible and an Atlas. We have only had one issue with a fuel pump on the kias and it was under warranty. the current three have 80k, 60k and 20k miles. No issues with the beetle but the turbo went out in my jetta about 80k. The atlas has had an issue with a sensor. 2 of the three times were under warranty. The warranty is much much better on the Kias but would rather drive the VWs any day of the week, They feel more substantial and more comfortable. Better zip and handling. The VWs hold resale better. My wife went from an Escalade ESV to the Atlas and loves it.